La Vida Tranquila
By Todd Looby & Monica Desmond
November 26, 2008
After just over a month of being here, we can give a preliminary account of our daily lives so far. Though many things will change and become clearer in the months ahead, we can paint a broad portrait of our daily life in Honduras.
We live at the “Casa de Santa Theresa de Lisieux”. It is a rectangular, 25-odd-room, single story complex with an open courtyard garden. It sits near a corner of two highways about one hour north of Tegucigalpa, Honduras’ capital city. The closest major town for groceries and other supplies (about 8 miles to the north of the house) is Comayagua, the original capital of the country. It’s a quaint, colonial-style city with plenty of markets, restaurants, internet shops, etc. to satisfy the American consumer (who is willing to lower his/her standards a little bit). We typically find ourselves going to town at least once a week for groceries, email, mail, and construction supplies. When our driver is unavailable, we walk up to the highway and catch a bus into town for about $0.50.
Our rooms are located in one corner of the house, next to the chapel. We have two 100 SF rooms to ourselves, which are connected by a private bathroom. We have two twin beds pushed together, which is technically an upgrade from our queen-size at home (with the added bonus of two wood beams and a space down the middle, and the added laundry of two sets of sheets). One of the rooms we turned into an office where we set up the computer to write and edit video.
Our rooms are fully screened. This is a fact that merits special mention, because it is not necessarily a “given” in Honduras. Although we have low-cut doors, screens and a well-constructed roof, we get our fair share of critters. Mosquitoes remain the most adaptable, innovative and annoying of our visitors. Mosquitoes have always had a special affinity for Todd’s blood, so he had to hang a mosquito net over his twin-sized bed for nighttime protection. Other frequent visitors are the geckos, which mostly hang out on the screens to catch dazed bugs that fly into the window going hell-bent for the light. They are our collaborators against the mosquitoes, though they simply aren’t enough. There is an occasional scorpion that finds its way into the complex, but they are few and far between. They are of a small breed but we hear they still give a nasty sting (which isn’t poisonous we’ve learned). And oftentimes, we hear the nails-on-chalkboard sound of iguanas running across our roof. A few seem to have set up a casa in the eves of the chapel.
We have a toilet, sink and shower in our room, with cold water. On hot days a cold shower is welcomed, but with the wind and relative cold we’ve had lately, it takes some will power to jump in. We recently bought an electric showerhead attachment to provide warm, if not scalding, showers. I know the concept of an electric showerhead is automatically oxymoronic in respect to safety, so I (Todd) enlisted the help of a volunteer with some electronic expertise to inspect the conduit and wiring work, which passed, though you can still get a sting sometimes when turning on the water. Also, all lights in the house dim for the duration of the shower. But with all this, I (Todd) have found that most accommodations can satisfy me as long as there is electricity for lights and computer. It is a sad fact that this is my new universal standard of good living. And once cellular internet technology is as fast or faster than current DSL, I’m confident that I’ll be able to live anywhere in the world contently.
There are four other long-term volunteers who live in similar rooms alongside us. Most only have one room because they are down here alone. Our fellow long-termers are an even mix of 2 men and 2 women, 2 twenty-somethings and 2 sixty-plus-somethings. Much of the remainder of the house is our 16 dorm-style guest rooms that can house up to six short-term volunteers each. Short-term volunteers (ranging in age from teenagers to octogenarians and most often in groups of 10 – 30 people) come down to Honduras to tour the many sites of Mission Honduras and to do work projects in maintaining or helping to build new facilities. These visitors pay $15/day for full room and board, which supports the volunteer center’s entire year-round operations. Volunteering at the mission is also a ‘retreat’ experience, a time for prayer, reflection, and breaking away from the distractions of daily life in the States. The house is designed, then, with lots of hammocks, a garden with benches, a chapel and library which provide space for volunteers to “be” on retreat just as much as, if not more than, they are “doing” projects.
We have a large dining room and kitchen where our full-time cook prepares all of our meals. We do eat well. Most of our food is indeed predominantly rice, beans, eggs and tortillas, but the variety also includes many of our American staples, like beef, chicken, vegetables and fruit. Todd had long ago mastered the art of making oatmeal, so we are heart-healthy most ever morning. Papaya, bananas, pineapple or oranges top off a delicious breakfast.
In one corner of the building is a library/ arts and crafts / study / TV room, which has a diverse selection of books brought down and left by visitors. There is also a healthy selection of movies, that if I (Todd) were to watch one a night for our stay, I couldn’t get through them all. They aren’t exactly my 4-star Ebert picks, but at least I’ll be able to keep up with popular culture (though delayed about 1 year) and find refuge in the fact that no matter how bad my own movies may or may not be, there are plenty that are worse. I also discovered Internet movie rentals on iTunes, so things are indeed looking up. All I need is to get a hotel room with high-speed internet now and again and I can download a month’s worth of good flicks. I (Monica) use this library space for a lot of my daily tasks related to groups and hospitality. We try to create a space here too that groups can use for evening reflections and personal time to read, write, draw, or whatever else they feel inspired to do. “Free time” and evening reflections for groups is an important part of their experience, as we try to create a retreat-like environment for them to reflect on their own lives and to process their experiences in Honduras.
Across the courtyard garden in the opposite corner of the house (next door to our room) is the Chapel. Lined with windows that look out to the trees and mountains beyond on two sides, the chapel is a peaceful, quiet place, my (Monica’s) favorite spot in the house. Its simplicity is beautiful – wooden benches that can hold up to about 40 people if packed in; a large wood alter, tabernacle, and lectern; and a small statue of Our Lady of Guadalupe. We gather in the chapel every morning at 7:00 am for either a communion service or Mass, and every evening at 5:30 pm for evening prayer. People visit the chapel throughout the day; and I particularly like to be there in the evening, when all is dark except for the warm red glow of candlelight.
The house itself is located on a 10-acre stretch of land, owned by the Honduran-partner organization, APUFRAM (Asociacion PUeblo FRAnciscano de Muchachos y Muchachas). The land contains the organization-run grade school, Our Lady of Guadalupe, as well as the seven boarding houses for orphaned or underprivileged girls who attend the school. Finally, there is the Margarita Cook Homes for single and/or abandoned mothers. There are currently eleven families living in these homes. It is very much a communal organization, where the boarded girls assist in the cleaning and cooking at their houses. The mothers also make bread in a panaderia, attend to the chicken coup, and herd the 20-something goats on the property. Although far from self-sustaining at this point, the work that is done by the women and children drastically reduces the overhead needed to sustain the one hundred plus lives that depend on the complex. The facilities are maintained (and there is always something that needs repairing) by APUFRAM maintenance staff and American volunteers who most often bring monetary donations for facility improvement projects.
It is a rural life. The closest I’ve (Todd) ever coming to living anything like this is when I went to college in Champaign, IL. It’s much quieter than city life in Chicago, although living close to a highway (2 lane) full of gear-grinding rigs, it can get pretty loud at night. Although it’s “rural” relatively speaking (Monica thinks) in that it’s a bit of a trek to get anywhere, there are goats and cows wandering around the property, and you can see a lot of stars on a clear night, it is interesting to think that to many Hondurans we are probably pretty urban – we walk 5 min. to catch a bus on a main highway, while many people in the mountains or eastern part of the country may walk hours to get to a paved road. Our days are typically filled with one activity or another, so it’s not the docile, daily siesta-life of my (Todd’s) ideal situation, but it’s good to be useful and active. It’s difficult to describe a typical day, because no day is ever much like the one prior, but we can give a general idea.
Todd: I get up anytime between 5:45 and 6:15 depending on if I wasn’t awakened prior by mosquitoes or trucks. Every other day I’ll take a ½ hour jog down the highway. And on the alternate day, I use that time to write. Monica: I get up about 6:00 each morning (after pressing snooze three times). My morning generally begins with about 15-20 min. of yoga – a session from a video that we’ve long since memorized. At 6:30 I begin setting up the chapel for either the communion service or Mass – opening windows, looking up the readings / psalms and canticles for the day; setting out the alter cloth, corporal, and other items (the names of which I’m still learning), and lighting candles. Preparing the chapel in the morning is a ritual I really enjoy – it is quiet still, and getting things in order in the chapel for our morning prayer also serves to begin to order my own thoughts for the day. On Mondays and Tuesdays we gather for a communion service, which incorporates parts of Morning Prayer. Every Wednesday thru Friday, when Fr. Emil is nearby (most of the time he lives about 4 miles away at the Mission Honduras / APUFRAM high school in Flores) we’ll have an hour long mass at 7am, which includes about a 20 minute open discussion in lieu of a homily. (On Sundays we celebrate Mass with the kids and moms at the school nearby, Guadalupe).
Todd: This sort of model (the weekday, open discussion model) I highly recommend for any Catholic (or non-Catholic) that is as ignorant about their professed faith as I found myself to be. During this open discussion, people are encouraged to say what the readings brought to mind, or questions they have concerning the tenants of the faith, or assorted history of the church. In a month, there hasn’t been a question that Fr. Emil hasn’t been able to answer. And it’s good to know that no matter what the preconceived notions of the Catholic faith may seem to be from the viewpoint of popular culture or Protestantism, it is much deeper and more flexible than most give it credit for, when one truly understands the concept of “intention”.
Following mass is a breakfast, which usually consists of eggs, pancakes or French toast or to the aforementioned oatmeal. And, of course, supplemented by coffee. In America, one never hears of Honduran coffee (more Costa Rican or Guatemalan), but I have to say, Café Maya is some of the best coffee I’ve had in the region.
After breakfast, we typically get to work in one way or another. Todd: Since I arrived, I had been designated the 1st and 2nd grade English teacher. Luckily for the kids, my tenure only lasted a few weeks, as their school years ended in early November. It was a good experience; I was amazed by their willingness to learn despite their teacher’s difficulty with trying to explain in Spanish their lessons, tests, and homework assignments. Almost all passed the final exam and continue to desire to learn from us in casual conversation.
Monica’s primary responsibilities are to serve as “Hospitality/Community Activities Coordinator.” This entails working around the house, as well as doing special activities with the mom’s and kids. I maintain the volunteer house rooms; coordinate the daily schedule for volunteer groups; assign rooms and make sure volunteers have whatever they may need; coordinate shopping lists, the weekly meal and dishes schedules, and at times transportation schedules. I also help maintain the chapel, prepare for and at times lead community prayer services. At times, I also facilitate group reflections in the evening. Essentially, I am the generalist around the house – helping with whatever needs to be done, including just about every aspect of running a retreat house from basic daily chores to being the backup for the House Director if needed. I also visit the school or mom’s project sometime during the day – whether for a specific project, prayer, reading with the grade school kids, or just hanging out.
Todd’s official title is “Director of Group Construction Projects”. This entails figuring out which facilities need work, coordinating the effort with APUFRAM, procuring materials needed, assembling and running the crews. So far, it’s been a lot of cleaning and painting work. To the average American-eye, the entire country of Honduras could use one solid coat of paint. It’s interesting to see the difference in our two cultures. In America, we are continually painting our houses, schools, etc. inside and out regularly to give a fresh look. Here, not only is paint less affordable, but dirt has so many more avenues to enter buildings than in America. Exteriors and interiors of buildings are not as distinct as they are in America. Plus, without much temperature control in Honduras, they don’t have our obsession with air tightness. Thus, painting can often seem like a futile task when its fruit is only temporarily enjoyed. Despite the uphill climb, I’m devoting a lot of my energies to painting, especially now that the school year is ending. (The Honduran school year runs from February to November. This allows students to return home for Christmas and for the harvest.) We will use the break to make all the schools a little nicer for the returning students. I do believe that clean, kept school facilitates can somehow make learning less daunting. Most of this work will always be done in the morning so that short-term volunteer groups can visit some of the kids that are in one of Mission Honduras / APUFRAM schools in the afternoon.
Two miles down the road from us and another mile up a dirt road is a small grade school, situated next to large cornfields, called St. Anthony’s. This site also contains the facilities to house orphaned or underprivileged boys, as well as a pond stocked with tilapia. Four more miles south of that (on the way to Tegucigalpa) is the Maximilian Kolbe High School and the San Francisco and Santa Ana boarding facilities for the students who go to the high school. (Boys and girls are separated at night by a locked gate with barbed wire – and, says, Fr. Emil, possibly the addition of tigers or a mote).
Mission Honduras / APUFRAM also has orphanages or boarding facilities in eight more cities, and two more countries – the Dominican Republic and Liberia. There are three more houses in Tegucigalpa, which house students going to the University. All of these facilities add up to a system to which it has made schooling infinitely easier than it would have been otherwise. The interesting thing that I have to keep in mind is that some of these kids need to be taken from their homes in order to go to school, or avoid the temptation (of their parents and themselves) to quit school and work for the extra and needed incomes. These facilities take one less mouth away from the family to feed, while providing safe housing, good nutrition, an education and the support for success in school and elsewhere.
Most of these facilities also include some sort of work/vocational program, where the kids help to essentially feed themselves by farming the organization’s crops – rice, corn, papaya, beans, etc. – and growing coffee, raising cows, or making furniture or palm oil. It’s really a fascinating setup when you take it all in. And it is a model that is as sustainable as it can be; and always striving to be even more so.
After lunch, we typically run errands for food or construction supplies in Comayagua, make checklists and take pictures of the conditions of the various facilities in the area, tend to the basic operations of the volunteer house, or work on special projects/immediate needs with the school or housing sites. Volunteers who stay here short-term also typically tour one of the sites in the afternoon to hang out with the school kids. This is always the most rewarding part of their experience here. Most leave in or near-tears at the utter openness and happiness of the kids. The kids also never tire of getting really attached and left by a different group of gringos every week.
In short, as long-term volunteers we essentially help staff the guest house/volunteer center that welcomes over 800 short-term volunteers each year. Our main responsibility can be generalized as facilitating the needs and experience of the volunteers, who typically wind up amassing the largest amount of donations that keep the organization afloat. There are times, though few, when no groups are visiting. At this time, we are typically coordinating and preparing for the arrival of the next group in one way or another. This is also good time to get more deeply involved with the people with whom we are working for and with – The Hondurans, especially at our site. It’s an interesting experience to approach a group of kids who immediately swarm around you looking for a quick hug, smile, or simply some affection. As stated above, most spend the majority of the year away from family, and sadly, some have no family for which to return. It is the most rewarding part of the experience – navigating through the slow, and sometimes painful process of breaking through language and suspicion barriers to befriend the Hondurans. From them we are learning a lot and hopefully, helping to make their lives a little easier in return.
Most of us also have some sort of side project that we work on directly with APUFRAM — whether it is smaller construction project, working with the mom’s at the Margarita Cook project, or being American liaisons to the other housing sites throughout the country.
One of Todd’s side projects is to make a promotional video for fundraising. In addition to this, I’ve taken to filming the groups and documenting their experiences, in the hope of maintaining the experience after they return to their busy lives back in the states. As part of all of this, we should be able to come up with some sort of documentary on the entire organization. Hopefully, I’ll be able to post excerpts of its progress soon. I’m also in the process of researching for my next screenplay. Monica recently completed a newsletter for Fr. Emil, which he’ll include in the hundreds of personal letters he mails each month. He is an exceptional fundraiser, whose secret seems to be not in efficiency, but in his commitment to personal contact and the work ethic that makes it possible to build and maintain those relationships. In putting together the newsletter, I was amazed by how extensively and rapidly Mission Honduras International is growing. We could have filled the entire newsletter with descriptions of projects just opened or expanded – boarding facilities, churches, schools – or new projects underway in the coming months; and the continuous growth is happening simultaneously in all three countries. Monica is also helping the sponsorship coordinator with the 1500 Christmas letters sent from the mission children to their sponsors in the states. Taking pictures of the children, having each one write a letter, and then translating them is a huge undertaking that takes several months. It has been a delight to get to know more of the kids during this process – they never tire of seeing themselves on the camera’s screen and I never tire of trying to make them smile (which they try so hard not to do in photos). The support of sponsors in the states (about a $1/day) is one of the single most important sources of funding for APUFRAM’s general operations, supporting the housing, food, clothing, books, and teachers for all the children.
Our days are capped by pre-dinner “Evening Prayer” in the chapel, dinner, and some hanging out either with our fellow long-termers or with the volunteer groups. Then (for Todd) it is back to work on the computer, writing or editing and watching a movie one or two nights per week. For Monica, when groups are here, evenings are usually spent talking with volunteers, tidying up in the kitchen, getting coffee ready for the morning, answering all sorts of questions or walking back and forth to the “hospitality room” for supplies like band-aids, bug spray, or the ever-important toilet paper. Later, and when groups are not here, I read in the green chair outside our room, often with the company of the house’s cat, Fe, curled in my lap. Typically, Todd’s fading off by 9:30 or 10:00 (and Monica shortly thereafter) as the night becomes too quiet too remain awake. For about eight years, I’ve (Todd) been trying, unsuccessfully, to go to bed consistently by 10:00, which seems to match my natural rhythms. This seems to be working well (see “Brain Plaque” article below).
Overall, though time may move a bit slower here, it does seem that, as in the States, there is not enough time to accomplish all we want or feel called to do. But, one thing we’re currently learning is that this atmosphere is an unbelievably forgiving one. It’s an interesting and reassuring feeling to be enveloped in that kind of world. This whole organization is built on the concept that we’ll use whatever resource we have at our disposal at the time to do what we can with it. If we have the money, we’ll do it the “right way” (ie. The American Way); if not, we’ll figure out a way to do it anyway, however imperfect, though functional and sustainable. Fr. Emil will be the first to tell you that it’s a miracle we’ve made it this far and that in his wildest dreams he never would have seen himself working simultaneously in four countries (US, Honduras, Dominican Republic and Liberia). Something good began with a sound philosophy, work ethic and commitment — and with those three qualities, it attracted others in droves to sustain it well into the next generation and beyond.
Hospitality
September 18, 2008
“Hospitality” and “Charity” are two words that often connotate that one is doing something solely for another. What they often entail is that the one performing such acts, typically gets the better end of the deal through some sort of spiritual renewal or reawakening. That, at least, has typically been my experience in doing some sort of charitable work. Through our previous trips to Central America, we were always overcome with emotion and surprise at the undying openness that we’ve found among the people here. Although, unlike in American they can´t just open their wallets, they open their homes and typically lay bear all that they have. It’s something that we, as well as many of our fellow travelers, feel is lacking in America. And it’s true, Americans aren’t as directly or personally open as many of the people we encounter in Central America. But, that obvious fault is more than countered in an important way.
The Sisters of the Assumption
I had the pleasure of helping to promote and film a recent event to aid the Sisters of the Assumption in South Africa. The Sisters of the Assumption is a small outfit essentially run by two 80-year old Irish nuns, who are also sisters (save the pun). In interviewing them for the promotional video, the sisters were very adamant in praising Americans for their generosity. This is something I think we often forget. Americans, when called to help, pour millions of dollars into relief, whether it be to small, Non-Governmental Origanizations (NGOs), Hurricane Katrina relief or Tsunami Aid. I believe we forget this because we all know we can give so much more.
Fr. Emil Cook, founder of Mission Honduras, would echo the Sisters of the Assumption claim. And our related Mission Obrigado endeavor has already proven this fact. When we
Fr. Emil Cook
put out the call for support on this mission, we were immediately the recipients of much of this hospitality. Our recent schedule has included finishing up all the loose ends associated with our work; planning our fundraising events; packing up the apartment and driving out West to drop off Burt with his generous foster owners. All of these steps were met with offers of help that were often unprompted and always selfless.
I’ve been a fan of off-the-cuff road trips and excursions for some time now. Since I took my first unplanned road trip in my early 20’s, I started noticing that things seem to simply fall into place when absolutely needed. Oftentimes, my fellow travelers and I would be in desperate need of a place to stay or food and miraculously we’d be presented
Hospitality Provided by Canyon (Pictured) and His Owners, Colorado
with something that would exceed our most basic need. In addition to basic needs, I learned that good things simply happen when we chose to simply put ourselves out there. We would roll into a town and previously unbeknownst, we would learn that one of our favorite bands was having a concert that night. Or, when in desperate need of firewood, a short hike would reveal a welcoming chord of wood.
I think that we, as Americans, aren’t used to or feel comfortable with this sort of openness to hospitality because of the ‘rugged individualism’ that has been instilled in us from very young ages. It is a complete contradiction that we live in the most generous nation, but at the same time, a population least willing to ask for that generosity. It seems to me that latter notion severely endangers the former. We currently find ourselves building up our own protective walls in large houses, cars, bank accounts, 401Ks,
Winston (and Owners) Provide Hospitality Outside Jackson, WY
insurance programs, etc. In working hard to obtain these things, we build up a pride and defensiveness that seems to declare “if I can help myself, so can you”. If we are more willing to ask for help, we will be even more willing to provide help when it is asked of us. Our obsession with an “ownership society” has an unintended tendency toward isolating us from each other. This is dangerous because there are ALWAYS times when we find ourselves without the necessary protections. We never can have enough. An unforeseen illness, natural disaster or stock-market crash can leave us naked and if we’ve spent our lives in our bubbles, we will lack the ability or know-how or humility to even ask for help.
“Community” is born of the notion that we are all in this together and we ALL have something to offer each other. It is a good exercise to intermittently put yourself out there and be vulnerable solely for the sake of discovering community. It reinvigorates your hope in humanity. Throughout our one-month journey we have been already found this in spades and for this we thank all of you. And it is not so much for what you have given us in material need, but in connectedness. I only hope that we are able to amply provide the same to those in Honduras, the people to which you all now will be inextricably linked.
Thank You, ALL.
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Posted in September 2008 | Tags: society comment